Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations

专利摘要:
New cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulations are disclosed that include: (a) an effective amount of a brassicaeae extract; And (b) oily substances and / or emulsifiers and / or UV / IR-ray protectors and / or antioxidants.
公开号:KR20020063914A
申请号:KR1020027007890
申请日:2000-12-11
公开日:2002-08-05
发明作者:뽈리쥘르；모제필리쁘；무쑤필리쁘；다누루이
申请人:코니스 프랑스, 에스.에이.；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

Cosmetic and / or Pharmaceutical Formulations {COSMETIC AND / OR PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS}
[2] Consumers believe that cosmetic preparations must meet increasing stringent requirements. In this regard, it goes without saying that the product for cleaning the skin, for example, must perform its function reliably. In addition, the user expects a composition of the product that has optimal dermatological suitability and thus does not cause skin irritation even in people with sensitive skin. However, the formulation must also perform other functions which are augmented in the field of care, in particular in the field of protection. The concern of manufacturers of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations is that they are easily accessible and can be manufactured at a reasonable cost, and are harmful to the skin and the hair at the same time as performing a wide range of functions, for example skin and hair care. It is the development of an active ingredient that can recover from damage caused while protecting from the effects. Indeed, in people with white skin, the UV component of the sun's rays causes a rather intense skin irritation ("sunburn") that can cause very severe burning. In repeated exposures, aging of the skin is accelerated, which is therefore considered dermatological and cosmetically harmful. These epidermal effects usually involve damage to cellular DNA and, in more severe cases, can cause skin melanoma. This relevance is now known, of course, but it is always exposed to sunlight in climatic and general outdoor conditions and is much safer than tanning, if necessary, or even safer than the permanent use of corresponding UV floodlights. Occurs only in some pure sunseekers using self-tanning agents.
[3] Thus, consumers are continually demanding new products that provide reliable protection against the danger of UV light and allow even longer exposure times. Increasing the sun protection factor by increasing the dose of sun protection factor is a solution because stable incorporation of the material into cosmetic preparations is always difficult and large amounts of active content are expensive. This is not it. In some cases, use at relatively high concentrations is undesirable because the filter also causes skin irritation.
[4] In this regard, international patent application WO 99/20242 (Herba), which discloses a dietary or cosmetic preparation containing one or more heteropolysaccharides and one or more other components (eg, carotenoids and / or glucosinolates, etc.). May be referred to as a reference. Through the removal or fixation of heavy metals, these agents have healing and protective properties. These properties lead to changes in the removal of heavy metals. Japanese Patent Application JP-A1 09/301833 (Sato) relates to the use of a mixture for treating gray hair containing aloe, brown algae extract, broccoli extract and honey.
[5] The problem addressed by the present invention is that certain components of the recovery and detoxin enzymes (eg, glutathione-S-transferase) can be used without the components causing any skin irritation to the user and without causing unwanted side effects in the sensitive user. Useful for the preparation of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, in particular for the treatment of skin and hair, which activate, stimulate or regulate cell growth and affect the metabolic activity of fibroblasts or keratinocytes. It is to provide a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulation that can be. Another problem to be solved by the present invention is that it has a strong filter effect, is light stable, can be easily and permanently incorporated into cosmetic preparations even at high concentrations, has an optimal dermatological compatibility, It is to make such cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which can be used in particular as novel sun protection preparations which simultaneously exhibit anti-inflammatory and skin resuscitation activity.
[1] The present invention relates generally to cosmetics and more specifically to novel formulations containing an effective amount of a constant plant extract or its contents together with oil components and / or emulsifiers and / or UV protection factors and / or antioxidants, and It relates to various uses of such extracts in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.
[6] The present invention relates to novel cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations characterized by containing the following ingredients:
[7] (a) (Brassicaceae) extract the Brassica years old child an effective amount of; And
[8] (b) oil components and / or emulsifiers and / or UV protection factors and / or antioxidants.
[9] Glucoraphanin and its isothiocyanates (sulforaphane) present in the genus Brassicase, in particular broccoli plant extracts, meet the above-mentioned complex requirements without causing unwanted side effects. To my surprise. Another advantage of these products is their antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity that can be used to treat acne, especially Acne vulgaris . In addition, the present invention encompasses the discovery that the present formulations almost ideally meet the complex requirements mentioned above in combination with commercially available UV protection factors or antioxidants. The formulations synergistically have an improved performance profile and improved photostability. The present invention includes the additional observation that the formulations inhibit skin aging and have regenerative and resuscitation effects. In addition, the formulation enhances the protective effect of skin and hair follicles against environmental toxins, oxidative stress and UV rays, in particular UV-B rays. Finally, the formulation stimulates collagen-forming fibroblasts and other molecules found in the dermis.
[10] Brassicaeaextract
[11] In the extract of the cruciferous plant Brassica years old child (crucifer) is characterized by a mustard glycoside, a so-called glucosidase resorcinol rate of the high content. Species of the plant family include, for example, rape, beet, all varieties of cabbage, radish, horseradish, caper, mustard plants, black and white mustard and wallflower ). Since they especially have high concentrations of glucosinolates, broccoli extract or broccoli seeds, especially broccoli sprout extract, are particularly preferred for the purposes of the present invention. The active substances identified in this extract are glucosinolate, glucopanin, which are readily converted to isocyanates, ie sulfolapans, in the presence of myrosinase.
[12]
[13] Therefore, cosmetic preparations containing brassicaease or broccoli extract on the one hand and glucopananine and / or sulfolapan on the other hand, have the inventive step that the two substances are active predispositions of the extract. Are incorporated by concept. Thus, the broccoli extract contains, for example, 30 to 35%, and the broccoli sprout extract contains 70% or more of glucopanin relative to the total glucosinolate content of the shoots. For reference, a study by Fahey et al . [ Proc. Nat. Acad. Sci. USA 94 , 10367 (1997) ], which reports that broccoli extract inhibits tumor development in rats. The effectiveness of glucosinolates for cancer prevention has been reported, for example Carverogenesis 16 , 969 (1995) by Verhagen et al. In particular, the use of sulfolapans in the detoxification of xenobiotic compounds, for example by inhibiting cytochrome P450 enzymes and the like, is known in the literature (see eg US Pat . No. 5,411,986 ). The use of broccoli as a lutein source is described in Food Chem. 54 , 101 (1995) .
[14] The extract is prepared in a known manner, for example, by Zhang et al . Biochem. 205 , 100 (1992) . For example maceration, remaceration, digestion, stirred acupuncture, vortex marceration, ultrasonic extraction, reflux extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation; Several other suitable extractions, such as extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation, and solid / liquid extraction under continuous reflux in a Soxhlet extractor which is well known to those skilled in the art and can in principle be used for both solid / liquid extraction. Specific examples of the method can be found, for example, in Hagers Handbuch der pharmazeutischen Praxis (5th Edition, Vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New York 1991). The exudation method is advantageous for industrial application. Fresh plants or parts thereof are suitable as starting materials, whether dry or fresh, and shoots or seeds and / or plant parts which can be mechanically reduced before extraction are generally used. Any size reduction method known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, freeze polishing, can be used. Suitable solvents for the extraction process are organic solvents, water (preferably water heated to a temperature of at least 80 ° C., preferably at least 95 ° C.) or mixtures of organic solvents and water, more preferably alcohols of somewhat lower molecular weight to be. Particular preference is given to extraction with methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof and water containing mixtures thereof. The extraction step is generally carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably 30 to 90 ° C, more preferably 60 to 80 ° C. According to one preferred embodiment, the extraction step is carried out under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the active prevalent phosphorus in the extract. At this time, the extraction is particularly important to be carried out at a temperature of more than 40 ℃. The extraction time is selected by the person skilled in the art according to the starting material, the extraction method, the extraction temperature and the ratio of the solvent to the raw material. After the extraction step, the crude extract obtained can optionally be subjected to other typical steps such as, for example, purification, concentration and / or bleaching. The extract thus prepared can, for example, be subjected to selective removal of individual unwanted inclusions, if desired. The extraction step can be performed to any degree, but generally lasts until exhausted. Typical yields in the seeds, shoots or plant parts (= ratio of extract dried to used raw materials) are in the range of 3 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 25% by weight. The present invention includes the observation that the extraction conditions and the yield of the final extract can be selected by one skilled in the art depending on the desired application. After the extraction step, it is desirable to liberate the extract from water by spray drying or lyophilization. The amount of active prevalent in the extract may vary depending on the raw materials used. In addition, the content of the active predisposition in the extract relative to the total amount of the extract is described, for example, in Kore et al ., J. Agric. Food Chem. 41, 89 (1993) , can be increased by enrichment or purification methods known to those skilled in the art. Typically the extract has a content of active postmark of 10 to 500 μmol / g, preferably 100 to 400 μmol / g, more preferably 200 to 300 μmol / g. The active predisposition of the extract contains predominantly or absolutely Glucoraphane and / or Sulforaphane. Mixtures of glucoraphane and sulfolapan are particularly preferred active factors for the purposes of the present invention. The percentage content of glucoraphane in the extract is generally 4 to 10 times more than sulfolapan. However, glucosinolates can be substantially completely hydrolyzed to isothiocyanates by the addition of an effective amount of thioglucosidase (myrosinase), or can be prepared in a mixture of two active postmarks. The extract may be used in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 to 2% by weight based on the formulation.
[15] In addition, the active predisposition may be prepared chemically, enzymatically or chemically / enzymatically used. Methods for this are described, for example, in Whitsell et al ., J. Org. Chem. 59 , 597 (1994) , Schenk et al., Chem. Eur. J. 3 , 713 (1997) , Holland et al., Tetrahedron: asymmetry 5 , 1125 (1994 ) and by Lori et al . Bioorg. Med. Chem. Lett. 9 , 1047 (1999) .
[16] Oil ingredients
[17] In a first embodiment of the invention, the formulation may contain an oil component in addition to the extract. Suitable oil components include, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms; Esters of linear C _6-22 fatty acids with linear C _6-22 fatty alcohols; For example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate , Cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl Behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate , Orail Myristate, Orail Palmitate, Orail Stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, Linear C ₆ such as behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucil myristate, erucil palmitate, erucil stearate, erucil isostearate, erucil oleate, erucil behenate and erucil erucate _-22 fatty alcohols and esters of branched C _6-13 carboxylic acids. Furthermore, esters of linear C _6-22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, more preferably 2-ethyl hexanol; Esters of hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C _6-22 fatty alcohols, more preferably esters of dioctyl malate; Esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (eg, propylene glycol, dimer diols or trimer triols) and / or Gurbet alcohols; Triglycerides based on C _6-10 fatty acids; Liquid mixtures of mono-, di- and triglycerides based on C _6-18 fatty acids; Esters of C _6-22 fatty alcohols and / or gulbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, more preferably benzoic acid; _{Esters of} C _2-12 dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxy groups; Vegetable oils; Branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, and linear and branched C _6-22 fatty alcohol carbonates; Sorbet carbonate; Benzoic acid and linear and / or branched C _6-22 alcohols (eg Finsolv Esters of TN); Linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetric dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group; Also suitable are ring opening products of polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons (eg squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexane) and epoxidized fatty acid esters.
[18] According to one specific embodiment of the present invention, the formulation contains:
[19] (a) 0.1 to 10% by weight of the extract; And
[20] (b) 1 to 99.9 weight percent oil component and / or 0.1 to 15 weight percent emulsifier;
[21] Provided that the amounts indicated above are optionally added in an amount of up to 100% by weight with water and / or other auxiliaries and additives.
[22] The percentage content of oil components in the present formulations may be from 1 to 99.9% by weight, preferably from 5 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the formulation. For example, formulations containing 0.1 to 10% by weight of extract and 90 to 99.9% by weight of oil component are within the scope of the present invention. If the content of both the extract and the oil components combined is less than 100% by weight, it can be balanced by other inclusions (most simply water).
[23] Emulsifier
[24] The formulations according to the invention may further contain an emulsifier. Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants selected from one or more of the following groups:
[25] 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide in linear C _8-22 fatty alcohols, C _12-22 fatty acids, alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group And / or the product obtained by adding 0-5 moles of propylene oxide;
[26] Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and epoxidized analogs thereof;
[27] Addition products of castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil with 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide;
[28] Addition products of castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil with 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide;
[29] Partial esters of unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms with glycerol and / or sorbitan, and 1 to 30 Addition product of moles of ethylene oxide;
[30] Polyglycerols (self-condensation degree on average 2 to 8, polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5,000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides ( For example, methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucoside (eg cellulose), saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / Or partial esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms, and addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
[31] Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohols according to DE 11 65 574 PS , and / or of fatty acids, methyl glucose and polyols (preferably glycerol or polyglycerol) containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms Mixed esters;
[32] Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates, and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates, and salts thereof;
[33] Wool wax alcohols;
[34] Polysiloxane / polyalkyl / polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives;
[35] Polyalkylene glycols; And
[36] Glycerol carbonate.
[37] Addition products of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, or perm oil with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide are known and commercially available products. These are cognate mixtures, and their average alkoxylation degree corresponds to the ratio between the amount of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and the amount of material undergoing the addition reaction. Addition products of glycerol and ethylene oxide, C _12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters, are known as refatting agents for cosmetic formulations from DE 20 24 051 PS .
[38] The preparation of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and their uses are known in the prior art. These are especially prepared by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. For glycoside units, both monoglycosides in which cyclic sugar units are attached to fatty alcohols by glycosidic linkages, and oligomeric glycosides, preferably having an oligomerization degree of about 8 or less, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value based on the typical homolog distribution of the technical product.
[39] Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides include hydroxystearic acid monoglycerides, hydroxystearic acid diglycerides, isostearic acid monoglycerides, isostearic acid diglycerides, oleic acid monoglycerides, oleic acid diglycerides, licis Nooleic acid monoglycerides, ricinoleic acid diglycerides, linoleic acid monoglycerides, linoleic acid diglycerides, linolenic acid monoglycerides, linolenic acid diglycerides, erucic acid monoglycerides, erucic acid diglycerides, tartaric acid monoglycerides Rides, tartaric acid diglycerides, citric acid monoglycerides, citric acid diglycerides, malic acid monoglycerides, malic acid diglycerides, and technical mixtures thereof that may contain small amounts of triglycerides from the manufacturing process. Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30 moles, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and the aforementioned partial glycerides.
[40] Suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan diol Sorbate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoleucate, sorbitan sesquileucate, sorbitan dietuate, sorbitan trihydrate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate , Sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan Monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorb Tan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorb Non-molecular trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30 moles, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and the sorbitan esters described above.
[41] suitablePolyglycerol estersTypical examples of polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglycerine-3-diisostearate (LameformTGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (IsolanGI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (IsolanPDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina)), Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010 / 90), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether (ChimexaneNL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (CremophorGS 32) and polyglyceryl polylysinoleate (Admul WOL 1403), polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate and mixtures thereof.
[42] Examples of other suitable polyol esters include lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, and the like, optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; Mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol.
[43] Other suitable emulsifiers are zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds containing at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate group and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants include N-alkyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinate (eg, cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate), N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinate (E.g., cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxide in which the alkyl or acyl group contains 8 to 18 carbon atoms So-called betaines such as oxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate and the like. Is cocamidopropyl betaine, a fatty acid amide derivative known by the CTFA name (Cocamidoporpyl Betaine) is particularly preferred. Amphoteric surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Amphoteric surfactants are surface active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, have at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming an inner salt. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include N-alkyl glycine, N-alkyl propionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycine, N-alkyl taurine , N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid, where alkyl contains about 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers, with particular preference in the form of quaternary esterquat, preferably quaternary methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. The percentage content of the emulsifier is from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 8% by weight. Formulations containing, for example, 0.1 to 10% by weight of extract and 0.1 to 15% by weight of emulsifier are within the scope of the present invention. Most simply, water is used to balance 100% by weight. Other additives (preferably emulsifiers) are described in more detail below.
[44] UV / IR protective factors and antioxidants
[45] The formulations according to the invention may additionally contain UV or IR protective factors and / or antioxidants.
[46] UV or IR protective factors in the context of the present invention are, for example, liquid or crystalline at room temperature, can absorb ultraviolet or infrared radiation, and can emit energy absorbed in the form of longer wavelength radiation, for example heat. Organic material (light filter). UV-B filters may be oil soluble or water soluble. The following are examples of oil soluble materials:
[47] 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampa and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) -campa as described in EP-B1 0693471;
[48] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid amyl ester;
[49] Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
[50] Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomentyl ester;
[51] Derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4- Methoxybenzophenone;
[52] Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
[53] Octyl triazone described in eg 2,4,6- trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and EP 0818450 A1 Or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb Triazine derivatives such as HEB);
[54] Propane-1,3-dione, for example 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione;
[55] Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives described in EP 0694521 B1 .
[56] Suitable water soluble materials are as follows:
[57] 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucaammonium salts.
[58] Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof;
[59] 3-benzylidene, such as for example 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) -sulfonic acid and salts thereof Sulfonic acid derivatives of camphor.
[60] Typical UV-A filters include, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4 Enamine compounds described in '-Metoxysidbenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789) or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione and DE 197 12 033 A1 (BASF) And derivatives of benzoyl methane such as In addition, UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in the form of mixtures. In addition to the above soluble materials, insoluble photo-block colorants, ie finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, may also be used for the purposes of the present invention. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium, and mixtures thereof. Silicone (talcum), barium sulphate and zinc stearate can be used as the salt. Oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skin care and skin protective emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably 5 to 50 nm, more preferably 15 to 30 nm. They may be spherical in shape, but elliptical particles or other non-spherical particles may also be used. In addition, the colorant can be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, for example Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) and Eusolex There is T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating materials include all of the silicones mentioned above, in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or dimethicone. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used as sun protection products. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other UV filters are reviewed by P. Finkel in SOFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and in Parfumerie und Kosmetik 3 (1999), pages 11 et seq. Can be found at].
[61] In addition to the two classes of primary sun protection factors described above, secondary sun protection factors in the form of antioxidants may be used. Secondary sun protection factors in the form of antioxidants block the photochemical cascade that is initiated when UV rays are transmitted through the skin. Typical examples include amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof; Imidazoles (eg, urocanoic acid) and derivatives thereof; Peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (eg anserine); Carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene, lutein) and derivatives thereof; Chlorogenic acid and its derivatives; Ribonic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid); Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine, and glycosyl thereof, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl , Palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters), and salts thereof; Dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts); And very small amounts (eg pmol to μmol / kg) of sulfoximine compounds (eg, butionine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfone, and penta-, hexa- and hepta) suitable for dosing -Thionine sulfoximine); In addition, (metal) chelating agents (eg, α-hydroxy fatty acid, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin); α-hydroxy acids (eg, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid); Humic acid; Bile acids; Bile extract; Bilirubin; Biliverdin; Boldin; Boldo extracts; EDTA; EGTA and its derivatives; Unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid); Folic acid and its derivatives; Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and its derivatives; Vitamin C and its derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate); Tocopherol and its derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate); Vitamin A and its derivatives (vitamin A palmitate); And coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin; Rutic acid and its derivatives; α-glycosyl routines; Ferulic acid; Furfurylidene glutitol; Carnosine; Butyl hydroxytoluene; Butyl hydroxyanisole; Nordihydroguaiac resin acid; Nordihydroguaiaretic acid; Trihydroxybutyrophenone; Uric acid and its derivatives; Mannose and its derivatives; Superoxid-Dismutase; Zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine); Stilbenes and derivatives thereof (eg, stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide); And derivatives of such active substances (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) suitable for the purposes of the present invention.
[62] According to one specific embodiment, the formulation contains:
[63] (a) 0.1-10% by weight of brassicaea extract; And
[64] (b) 0.1 to 20 weight percent UV / IR protective factor and / or antioxidant;
[65] Provided that the amounts indicated above are optionally added in an amount of up to 100% by weight with water and / or other auxiliaries and additives.
[66] UV protection factors and / or antioxidants may be present in the formulations in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, more particularly 3 to 10% by weight.
[67] Commercial application
[68] In general, both brassicaease and broccoli extracts (all the above-mentioned extracts of broccoli, broccoli seeds or broccoli buds), especially their active predispositions (glucolapanin and sulfolapan), have numerous cosmetic and pharmaceutical effects. . The present invention therefore also relates to the following uses of brassicaea extracts, preferably broccoli extracts, in particular glucopanin and sulfolapan and all mixtures thereof:
[69] Use as skin and hair care agents;
[70] Use as an anti-inflammatory agent;
[71] Use as an antimicrobial agent;
[72] Use as antioxidant and radical scavenger;
[73] Use as a skin cell formation promoter or modulator;
[74] Use as a stimulant of skin detoxifying enzymes, especially glutathione-S-transferases;
[75] Use as an anti-acne agent;
[76] Use as skin rejuvenating agent;
[77] Use as a UV / IR protective factor;
[78] Use as an agent which inhibits damage of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes by UV light, in particular UV-B light;
[79] Use as an agent to inhibit DNA damage by UV-induced apoptosis and in particular by UV-B light.
[80] If the extract is used in brassicaea as a UV / IR protecting factor, other UV / IR protection which may be present in a total amount of 0.2 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably 5 to 10% by weight. Preference is given to using factors and / or antioxidants.
[81] In the context of the present invention, the terms "agent" and "agent" are the same as the term "care agent".
[82] It is understood that the care formulation related to the present invention is a hair and skin care formulation. Such care formulations have stimulating, healing and regenerative effects, in particular for skin and hair. Preferred care preparations in the context of the present invention are those which have a stimulating effect on skin cells and their functions, have a regenerative effect on skin and hair, and a protective effect on environmental effects on skin and hair. Other preferred care agents related to the present invention are those that can ameliorate or treat a variety of skin diseases through various effects on the condition and function of the skin.
[83] The preparations according to the invention have an excellent skin care effect with high dermatological compatibility. In addition, they exhibit a high stability, in particular against oxidative degradation of the product.
[84] According to the present invention, Brassicaea extract acts as an anti-inflammatory care agent that can cure or prevent skin inflammation. The inflammation can have various causes. In particular, the preparations according to the invention can be used to treat UV rays, infections of the skin or inflammation induced by bacteria and hormonal changes (eg acne) in the skin.
[85] According to the present invention, Brassicaea extract is active against skin aging, and all the extracts are active against all forms of skin lining and wrinkles. Its uses include slowing down the skin aging process. Signs of aging can have a variety of causes. In particular, they can be caused by UV-induced skin damage. In particular, according to another embodiment of the present invention, Brassicaea extract is used against damage of fibroblasts and keratinocytes by UV light.
[86] According to another embodiment of the present invention, Brassicaea extract is used to treat UV-induced apoptosis and DNA damage, and thus signs of skin aging resulting.
[87] In the context of the present invention, apoptosis is understood to be the controlled apoptosis of any unwanted or damaged cells. This is an activated cellular process (suicide by command). Apoptosis is initiated by oxidative stress (UV rays, inflammation), by lack of growth factors or by toxins (pollutants, gene toxins, etc.). In the process of skin aging, for example, apoptosis of skin cells can be induced by a lack of growth factors in the skin. In cells affected by apoptosis, nuclear DNA is degraded by specific enzymes, endonucleases, and DNA fragments enter the cytoplasm. Apoptosis can also be induced by UV light, in particular UV-B light. In principle, growth factors are understood as genetic or exogenous growth factors that stimulate the growth of skin or hair cells. These include, for example, hormones and compound mediators or signal molecules. By way of example, there are polypeptide growth factors and glycoprotein growth factors. Here, mention is made of epidermal growth factor (EGF), a polypeptide growth factor, or fibrillin, a glycoprotein, consisting of 53 amino acids. Other growth factors include, for example, urogastrone, laminin, follistatin and heregelin.
[88] In addition to the aforementioned effects of the extract on brassicaea , a positive effect was also observed in the regulation of melanin formation. This effect enables the extract of Brassicaea to be used as a skin whitening agent or to prevent the hair from turning gray. In addition, the effect on the activation of lypolysis was also observed. This effect allows the brassicaea extract according to the present invention to be used as an anticellulite and slimming agent. Their use as agents for increasing skin elasticity and firmness is inferred from the effects observed in the investigation of anti-protease activity. Brassicaase extract according to the present invention exhibits anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity, and thus destruction by collagenase and elastase of skin proteins, which are important for the development of skin elasticity and firmness. Inhibits.
[89] Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations
[90] The extract or active predisposition is, for example, hemp shampoo, hair lotion, bubble bath, shower bath, cream, gel, lotion, alcoholic and / or aqueous / alcoholic solution, emulsion, wax / fatty compound, It can be used in the manufacture of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as stick preparations, powders or ointments. In addition to the oil components, emulsifiers and UV / IR protective factors and / or antioxidants described above, the formulations may be used as mild surfactants, superfatting agents, pearlized waxes, viscosity factors, thickeners. , Polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, perfumes, preservatives And additional adjuvants and additives such as insect repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), solubilizers, perfume oils, colorants and the like.
[91] Typical examples of suitable mildness, in particular dermatologically suitable surfactants , are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosines Protein fatty acids based on nates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamate, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, and / or preferably wheat protein There is a condensate.
[92] Overfatting agents are, for example, lanolin and lecithin and fatty acid alkanols supplied as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, or foam stabilizers Selected from materials such as mead.
[93] Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, in particular ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, in particular cocofatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, in particular stearic acid monoglycerides; Esters of carboxylic acids which are polybasic and optionally contain hydroxy substituted 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular long chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty compounds such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, all of which have at least 24 carbon atoms, in particular lauron and distearyl ether; Olefin epoxides containing stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, and 12 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxy groups And fatty acids such as ring-opening polymerization products with polyols and mixtures thereof.
[94] Viscosity factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22, preferably 16 to 18, carbon atoms and partially containing glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. Combinations of these materials with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates having the same chain length are preferably used.
[95] Suitable thickeners are for example Aerosil Type (hydrophilic silica), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginate and tyloose, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, or relatively high Polyethylene glycol mono-esters of molecular weight and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg Carbopols Goodrich or Synthalens [Sigma]), surfactants such as polyacrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, for example esters of fatty acids with ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides and polyols (e.g. pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane), There is a narrow range of fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides, and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
[96] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives (e.g. Polymer JR 400). Quaternary hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as obtainable from Ammerchol by name), cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternary vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers (e.g., Luviquat (BASF), etc.), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternary collagen polypeptides (eg, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat) L, Grunau, et al.), Quaternary wheat polypeptide, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers (e.g., amodimethicone, etc.), adipic acid and copolymers of dimethylamino-hydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine , Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat 550, Chemviron), for example the polyaminopolyamides described in FR 2 252 840 A and their crosslinking water soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives (e.g. quaternary chitosan, optionally with microcrystalline distribution), dihal Condensation products of roalkylene (such as dibromobutane) and bis-dialkylamines (such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane), cationic guar gum (such as Jaguar of Celanese) CBS, Jaguar C-17, Jaguar C-16, etc.), quaternary ammonium salt polymers (eg Mirapol from Miranol) A-15, Mirapol AD-1, Mirapol AZ-1, etc.).
[97] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic , amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / Isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamides / Methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymer, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl meta Acrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers, and their selectively derived cellulose ethers and silyls There is a cone compound.
[98] Suitable silicone compounds include, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicones. Compounds, which can be liquid or dendritic at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds include simethicone, which is a mixture of dimethicone and hydrogenated silicate having an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicone compounds can be found in Todd et al ., Cosm. Toil. 91 , 27 (1976) .
[99] Typical examples of fats are glycerides, while suitable waxes are in particular natural waxes, for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma Waxes, race oil waxes, sugar cane waxes, oricury waxes, montan waxes, beeswax, shellac waxes, spermaceti, lanolin (wool waxes) ), Uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin wax, microwax; Or chemically modified waxes (hardening waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, and the like; Or synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, other suitable additives include fat-like substances such as lecithin and phospholipids . Lecithin is known to those skilled in the art as glycero-phospholipids formed by esterification from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Thus, lecithin is often called to those skilled in the art as phosphatidyl choline (PC). An example of natural lecithin is kephalin, known as phosphatidic acid and a derivative of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphate. Phospholipids, on the other hand, are commonly understood to be mono-, preferably diesters of phosphoric acid (glycerophosphate) containing glycerol, which is generally classified as fat. Sphingosine and sphingolipids are also suitable.
[100] For example, metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used as stabilizers .
[101] In the context of the present invention, biological agents include, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, dioxynucleotides, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid, amino acids, ceramides, Pseudoceramide, essential oils, other plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
[102] Cosmetic deodorants suppress, hide or eliminate odors in the body. Odor in the body is formed through the action of skin bacteria in the apocrine glands which cause decomposition products of unpleasant odors. Thus, deodorants contain active predispositions that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, malodor absorbers or malodor maskers.
[103] Basically, suitable germination inhibitors are, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-colophenyl) -N '-(3,4-dichlorophenyl) -urea, 2,4, 4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenylether (trichloroic acid), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) -phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chloro-phenoxy) -propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2- Propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorohexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial perfume, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clover oil, menthol Salicylic acid, such as mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), for example salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl amide Acts on Gram-positive bacteria like -N-alkylamides There is any material to make.
[104] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. The esterase inhibitor is preferably a trialkyl citrate such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate, in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf, FRG). Esterase inhibitors reduce odor formation by inhibiting enzymatic activity. Other esterase inhibitors include, for example, sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as lanosterol, cholesterol, camphorsterol, stigmasterol, cytosterol sulfate or phosphate, and dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof such as glutaric acid, glutaric acid Acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acid and esters thereof such as citric acid , Malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and chlorinated glycinate.
[105] Suitable malodor absorbers are substances which can absorb malodor forming compounds and are capable of retaining large amounts. These can reduce the partial pressure of the individual components, thereby reducing the rate at which the malodorous component diffuses. An important requirement in this regard is that perfumes must be kept intact. Odor absorbers are inactive against bacteria. These are, as their main components, many natural substances known as "fixateurs", for example zinc complexes of ricinolic acid, or extracts of, for example, radanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Contains a specific fragrance of the scent. Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which, in addition to their odor masking function, impart their specific perfume properties to the deodorant. Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural perfumes include extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, wood, herbs and herbs, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Zoo foods such as musk and beaver may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products in the form of esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Examples of perfume compounds in ester form include benzyl acetate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styralyl Propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanals, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehydes, hydroxy-sheets containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Laurelal, lillyal and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are ionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linarool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of other perfume compounds which together produce a suitable aromaticity. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils having a relatively low volatility, which are mainly used as fragrance components. For example, sage oil, clover oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galvanum oil, ladanum Oils and labendine oils. The following are preferably used individually or in the form of mixtures, respectively: bergamot oil, dihydromyrenol, lily, rial, citronelol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hydroxy-cinnaaldehyde, Geraniol, Benzyl Acetone, Cyclamen Aldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedion, Sandelis, Citrus Oil, Mandarin Oil, Orange Oil, Allyl Amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, rabendine oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E- Super, Fixolide NP, Everenyl, Iradane Gamma, Phenyl Acetic Acid, Geranyl Acetate, Benzyl Acetate, Rhose Oxide, Lomilat, Irotyl and Floramat.
[106] Antiperspirants reduce sweating, reducing the underarm moisture and body odor by affecting the activity of the eccrine sweat gland. Aqueous or anhydrous antiperspirant formulations typically contain the following contents.
[107] Contractile active predisposition;
[108] Oil components;
[109] Nonionic emulsifiers;
[110] Auxiliary emulsifiers;
[111] Viscosity factor;
[112] Adjuvant, for example in the form of thickeners or complex agents; And / or
[113] Non-aqueous solvents such as ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerol.
[114] Suitable shrinkable active sources of antiperspirant are all of the salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents of this type are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof such as 1,2-propylene glycol, Aluminum hydroxyalantonate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, and complexes thereof with amino acids such as, for example, glycine. Such useful aids include, for example:
[115] Essential oils of inflammation inhibition, pivo-protection or palatability-odor;
[116] Synthetic skin protectants; And / or
[117] Oil-soluble perfume oils.
[118] Typical water soluble additives include, for example, preservatives, water soluble perfumes, pH adjusters (eg buffer mixtures), water soluble thickeners (eg xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides). Same water soluble natural or synthetic polymers).
[119] Suitable anti-dandruff agent, Octopirox (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2- (2H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival, Piroctone, Ola Olamine, Ketoconazole (4-acetyl-1- {4- [2- (2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-diosilane-c-4-ylmethoxy -Phenyl} -piperazine, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or combination with hexachlorophene), Undecylenic Acid, Monoethanolamide Sulfosuccinate Na Salt, Lamepon UD (protein / undecylene acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.
[120] Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternary chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of acrylic acids, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid ( hyaluronic acid) and salts thereof, and analogue compounds thereof.
[121] Suitable swelling agents for the water phase are montmorillonite, clay minerals, Pemulen and Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers and swelling agents are known as Al. Review by R. Lochhead et al . Cosm. Toil. 108 , 95 (1993) .
[122] In addition, hydrotrope such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can be used to improve flowability. Suitable polyols preferably contain from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxy groups. The polyol may contain other functional groups, especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. A typical example is as follows:
[123] Glycerol;
[124] Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 Da;
[125] Technical oligoglycerol mixtures having a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as, for example, technical diglycerol mixtures having a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
[126] In particular methylol compounds such as trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
[127] Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
[128] Sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol;
[129] Sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose;
[130] Amino sugars such as glucamine;
[131] Dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.
[132] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and other classes of compounds described in Part A and B of Kosmetikverordnung (similar to 'cosmetic instructions'), Appendix 6 . Suitable insect repellents are N, N-diethyl N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate. Suitable self-tanning agents are dihydroxyacetones. Suitable tyrosine inhibitors that are used as pigmentation inhibitors by interfering with the formation of melanin include, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). There is).
[133] Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural fragrances include flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, wisteria, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petite grain), fruit (anis, coriander, baby fennel). , Juniper), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, irises, calmus), woody parts (songrim, sandalwood, guaicumum, larch, rosewood), herbs and herbs (taragone) , Lemon grass, sage, thyme, bedsides and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galburnum, elemi, benzoin resin, myrrh, olivanum, opofanax ) Extract. Animal raw materials such as musk and beaver may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products in the form of esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Examples of perfume compounds in ester form include benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carvinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, Ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes are, for example, linear alkanals, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxysheets containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Neal, lily and borgional. Examples of suitable ketones are ionone, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols include anethol, citronenol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linarool, phenylethyl alcohol And terpineol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of other perfume compounds which together produce a suitable aromaticity. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils having a relatively low volatility, which are mainly used as fragrance components. For example, sage oil, chamomile oil, clover oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, radanum oil and There is lavender oil. The following are preferably used individually or individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrsenol, lily, rial, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hydroxy-cinnamaldehyde, geraniol , Benzyl Acetone, Cyclamen Aldehyde, Linalool, Boysambrene Forte, Ambroxane, Indole, Hedion, Sandelis, Citrus Oil, Mandarin Oil, Orange Oil, Allylamyl Glycolate, Cycloberthal, Labendine Oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, bertopix cour, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, everyl, irate de gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl Acetates, rose oxides, lomilat, erotyl and floramat.
[134] Suitable dyeing agents are any materials suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, for example, as listed in Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungs-gemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, A Kosmetische Farbemittel , page 81-106 . Such dyeing agents are generally used in concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.
[135] The total percentage content of adjuvant and additive is 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, relative to this particular formulation. The formulations may be prepared by standard heating or cold processing and are preferably produced by a phase inversion temperature method.
[136] Preparation Example H1
[137] Deeply frozen 0.4 kg of broccoli shoots on day 3.8 were ground and diffused into 800 ml of water. The suspension was stirred at 20 ° C. for 4 hours and finally filtered to remove insoluble components. The resulting water soluble extract was heated at 102 ° C. for 15 minutes, concentrated under reduced pressure and finally lyophilized.
[138] Preparation Example H2
[139] 0.15 kg of deep-frozen broccoli shoots on day 3.8 were ground and diffused into 225 ml of water. Then 1,200 mL of methanol was added and the mixture was heated to reflux for 1 hour and extracted in this step. The suspension was then cooled, filtered and the solvent was distilled off under reduced pressure. The resulting concentrate was lyophilized, which had 200 μmol / g glucosinolate and 13 μmol / g isothiocyanate content.
[140] Preparation Example H3
[141] 5.2 g of the freeze-dried extract obtained from Example H2 were suspended in 100 g of water and adjusted to pH 6 by addition of 5N sodium hydroxide solution to the resulting suspension. 25 U thioglucosidase (1 U is the amount of enzyme required to obtain 1 μmol / g glucose from cinigrin at 25 ° C./pH 6) and 9.9 mg sodium ascorbate are added and the mixture is 37 ° C. Stirred for 8 hours. The pH was then readjusted to pH 6 by the addition of more sodium hydroxide, the suspension was filtered and then lyophilized. The isothiocyanate content of the extract was 230 μmol / g.
[142] Preparation Example H4
[143] 0.2 kg of broccoli seeds were suspended with 0.4 kg of water. Then 1,600 ml of methanol was added and the mixture was heated to reflux for 1 hour and extracted in this step. The suspension was then cooled, filtered and the solvent distilled off under reduced pressure. The resulting concentrate was lyophilized which had 195 μmol / g glucosinolate and 59 μmol / g isothiocyanate content.
[144] Glucosinolates and isothiocyanates are both described by Zhang's method [ Y. Zhang et al., Anal. Biochem. 205, 100-107 (1992) .
[145] Example 5: Skin Remodeling and Resuscitation Activity
[146] The purpose of this test is to show the regeneration and resuscitation activity of broccoli sprout extract in human fibroblast cultures in vitro.
[147] Method 1: Effect on Cell Growth
[148] Human fibroblasts were inoculated in defined nutrient medium containing 10% by weight fetal calf serum (DMEM = Dulbecco Minimum Essential Medium, manufactured by Life Technologie Sarl) and incubated for 24 hours at 37 ° C. under 5% CO ₂ atmosphere. . The nutrient medium containing fetal calf serum was then replaced with DMEM medium without fetal calf serum. Broccoli sprout extracts obtained from Examples H1 to H3 were added to the nutrient medium at various concentrations. For comparison, a test class of human fibroblasts to which no activity was added was cultured as a control. After culturing the fibroblasts in the nutrient medium for 3 days, the cell number was measured by particle counter, and Bradford method [ Anal. Biochem. 1976, 72, 248-254 ], the protein content was measured, and the ATP content was determined by the method of Vasseur [ Journal Francais Hydrologie, 1981, 9, 149-156 ] , thereby improving growth and metabolism activity. Evaluated. With concentrations of Example H1 to H3 extracts of 0.001 to 0.03% by weight, an increase in percentage ATP content of at least 16% compared to the control was obtained.
[149] This study shows that the broccoli extracts of Examples H1 to H3 stimulate the growth and metabolism of human fibroblasts in vitro.
[150] Method 2: improve cell viability
[151] This test was performed on human fibroblasts. A certain number of parameters allow for the quantitative determination of resting cells. Incubation of cells corresponds to Method 1 above except for incubation time. Incubation time in this test is 72 hours. Cell viability is Bradford's method [ Anal. Biochem. 1976, 72, 248-254 ] by colorimetric determination of the percentage protein content by Hissin and Hilf's method (Anal. Biochem. 1976, 74, 214-216 ). Glutathione is assessed by measurement of percent glutathione (GSH) content using a fluorescent probe orthophthalaldehyde and via mitochondrial active MTT by the method described in J. Immunol.Methods 89 , 271 (1987) . Produced by the cells in order to react directly to environmental influences such as oxidative stress and heavy metal levels Therefore, after treating the cells with extracts of Examples H1 to H3, the increased percentage content of reduced glutathione is determined by external stress. This test was performed three times and repeated twice, totaling six results for each plant extract. Obtained and averaged for each batch The results are expressed in percent compared to the control.
[152] The results are shown in Table 1. Activity data is expressed as a percentage of the blank value.
[153] In vitro growth and cell viability against fibroblasts Concentration [% w / v]proteinATPproteinMTTGSH none100100100100100 Extract, Preparation Example 1 -0.001103101103 -0.00311389113 -0.005 10098 -0.011139011381111 -0.02 72126 Extract, Preparation Example H2 -0.001108113108 -0.003112102112 -0.01120116120113107 -0.02 131125 -0.0311394131147149 Extract, Preparation Example 3 -0.005 10691 -0.01 113114 -0.02 138193
[154] The results shown in Table 1 above are clear from the increased content of protein and adenosine triphosphate (ATP) (especially after treatment of the extract of Preparation Example 2), the growth promoting effect of the present extract on the treated fibroblasts. Provide evidence
[155] Improvement of cell viability is indicated by an increase in GSH and MTT content after treatment of fibroblasts with the present extract.
[156] Example 6
[157] To investigate the anti-inflammatory effect, PMN preparations (polymorphonuclear neutrophilic granulocytes) were incubated with the extracts at 37 ° C./5% CO _{2 for} 24 hours [ J. Invest. 95 , 94S (1999); Immunopharmacology 23 , 191 (1992) . The yeast extract was then added to the cell suspension and the formulation was incubated for another 30 minutes under the same conditions. Then, white blood cell counts were measured using an automatic cell number meter, and RSA (released peroxide anion) was quantified using luminol. The results are shown in Table 2. Active data is again expressed as a percentage of the blank value.
[158] Anti-inflammatory effect on leukocytes Concentration [% w / v]leukocyteRSA none100100 Extract, Preparation Example 1 -0.00110386 -0.0199-0.110131 Extract, Preparation Example 2 -0.00110163 -0.0110415 -0.1103One Extract, Preparation Example 3 -0.00110161 -0.0110433 -0.11032
[159] For the same number of keratinocytes, as the concentration of the extract increases, the number of free hydrogen peroxide anions (RSA) decreases considerably, so the results presented in the table reflect the apparent anti-inflammatory effect of the extract. These results show that the extract is nontoxic to cells and significantly reduces the content of inflammation-promoting RSA.
[160] Example 7
[161] To determine the effect on UV-B light , human keratinocytes were incubated for 72 hours in nutrient media (37 ° C./5% CO ₂ ). The nutrient medium was then replaced with the salt solution contained corresponding to the amount of extract to be tested. The formulation was exposed to UV-B light (50 mJ / cm 2, DUKE GL40E lamp) and incubated for another 24 hours under the above conditions. The number of keratinocytes was determined after trypsinization; The lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) released is measured for cell damage [ Photochem. Photobiol. 41 (1) , 51 (1985); Dermatol. Res. 282 , 325 (1990) ]. The results are shown in Table 3. Activity data is again expressed as a percentage of the blank value.
[162] Effectiveness against UV-B rays Concentration [% w / v]KeratinocyteLDH None (no UV-B rays)1000 None (with UV-B rays)25100 Extract, Preparation Example 2 -0.016331 -0.026927 Extract, Preparation Example 3 -0.00254359 -0.0054639 -0.015429
[163] Example 8 Cytoprotective Effect on UV-A in Human Fibroblasts Cultured in Vitro
[164] Background : UV-A rays (320-400 nm) penetrate the skin, causing oxidative stress, represented by lipid peroxidation of the cytoplasmic membrane.
[165] Lipid peroxides are broken down into malonaldialdehyde (enzyme inhibition and mutagenesis) that crosslinks many biological molecules, such as proteins and nuclein substrates.
[166] Method : To perform this test, inoculate defined culture medium containing fibroblasts with fetal calf serum and add plant extract (dissolved in defined medium containing 2% serum) 72 hours after inoculation. It was.
[167] After 48 hours of incubation at 37 ° C./5% CO ₂ , the culture medium was replaced with sodium chloride solution and exposed to fibroblasts at a constant dose of UV-A (365 nm, 15 J / cm 2; tube; MAZDA FLUOR TFWN40). Let
[168] After exposure to UV-A, the amount of MDA (the amount of malonaldialdehyde) in the supernatant sodium chloride solution was determined quantitatively by reaction with thiobarbituric acid. In addition to the amount of MDA, protein content was also determined.
[169] Quantification of malonaldialdehyde in fibroblasts (result of% for control, mean value of 2 tests (3 repetitions each)) Concentration (% w / v) MDA volume Protein content UV-free control00 UV-A (365 nm)10097 UV-A + Example H4 Extract 0.03%45118 UV-A + Example H4 Extract 0.1%36132
[170] The results shown in Table 4 show that the extract according to the present invention significantly reduced the amount of MDA in human fibroblasts induced by UV-A rays. These results reflect that broccoli seed extract portions can reduce the deleterious effects of oxidative stress on skin or hair follicles.
[171] Example 9 Effect on UV-B-induced Apoptosis and DNA Damage in Human Keratinocytes in Vitro
[172] Background : Apoptosis (apoptosis) can be induced by UV-B rays. These cells show an increased amount of broken DNA, degraded by endonucleases. DNA cleavage is transferred to the cytoplasm.
[173] Method : Human keratinocytes were examined to show UV induced apoptosis and induced DNA damage. To perform this test, inoculated caratinosite in a defined medium containing 10% fetal calf serum (DMEM = Dulbecco Minimum Essential Medium, a product of Life Technologie Sarl), incubated at 37 ° C./5% CO ₂ . 72 hours after inoculation, Example H2 and H3 extracts (diluted with sodium chloride solution) were added.
[174] The keratinocytes were then exposed to a constant dose of UV-B (50mJ / cm 2 -tube; DUKE GL40E) and incubated again at 37 ° C./5% CO ₂ for 24 hours.
[175] The number of adsorbed keratinocytes was determined with a particle counter (after trypsin treatment). The content of DNA fragments in the cytoplasm was then determined by the Parat method [ Parat et al., J. Photochem. Photobiol. B. Biol. 37, 101, 1997 ].
[176] Content of free DNA fragments in caratinosite after apoptosis induced by UV-B light density Keratinocyte Intercept (% w / v) dog Intercept Control without UV-B 1000 UV-B with control 97100 Extract, Preparation Example H20.0112655 Extract, Preparation Example H30.00512371
[177] The results demonstrate that the present extracts tested can reduce the content of free DNA fragments in the cytoplasm of keratinocytes induced by apoptosis by UV-B irradiation. Therefore, it can be shown that DNA destruction after UV-B irradiation can be prevented to a degree that can be considerably considered by the present extract. The extract is suitable as an agent for UV-B-induced apoptosis in human skin cells and hair follicles and as an agent for UV-B-induced DNA damage.
[178] Example 10
[179] In order to measure the antimicrobial activity, a propionyl sludge freshly added tumefaciens acne (Propionibacterium acne) 6㎜ the size of fragments that filter paper impregnated with the various test solutions (0.1%) of 20㎕ (1.5 x 10 ⁶ bacteria / ㎖ ) Agar was applied to the surface of the formulation. Effectiveness was examined by measuring the average diameter of the areas where no bacterial growth was observed. The results are shown in Table 6.
[180] Effectiveness against acne bacteria (expressed as diameter of inhibition zone in mm) Concentration [% w / v] Extract, Example 2 Extract, Example 3 0.189
[181] Inhibition zones of 8 mm and 9 mm in the area near the filter paper impregnated with the extract showed a pronounced growth inhibition of Propionibacterium acne . This is evidence of the growth-inhibitory effect of the present extract on possible acne products.
[182] Example 11
[183] Formulation Examples
[184] Numerous formulation examples are shown in Table 7.
[185] Cosmetic preparations Composition (INCI)One2345678910 Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate)------38.038.025.0- Texapon SB3 (disodium laureth sulfosuccinate)--------10.0- Plantacare 818 (coco glucoside)------7.07.06.0- Pantacare PS 10 (sodium laurate sulfate (and) coco glucoside)---------16.0 Dehyton PK 45 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)--------10.0- Dehyquart A (setrimonium chloride)2.02.02.02.04.04.0---- Dehyquart L 80 (docoylmethylethoxymonium methosulfate (and) propylene glycol)1.21.21.21.20.60.6---- Eumulgin B2 (Cetearette-20)0.80.8-0.8-1.0---- Eumulgin VL75 (lauryl glucoside (and) polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate (and) glycerin)--0.8-0.8----- Lanette O (cetearyl alcohol)2.52.52.52.53.02.5---- Cutina GMS (glyceryl stearate)0.50.50.50.50.51.0---- Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)1.0-------1.0- Cetiol PGL (hexyldecanol (and) hexyldecyl laurate)-1.0--1.0----- Cetiol V (decyl oleate)---1.0------ Eutanol G (octyl docecanol)--1.0--1.0---- Nutrilan Keratin W (hydrolyzed keratin)---2.0------ Lamesoft LMG (glyceryl laurate (and) potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen)------3.02.04.0- Euperlan PK 3000 AM (glycol distearate (and) laureth-4 (and) cocamidopropyl betaine)-------3.05.05.0 Generol 122N (Soya Sterol)----1.01.0---- Broccoli Sprout Extract H11.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Hydagen HCMF (chitosan)1.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Copherol 12250 (tocopherol acetate)--0.10.1------ Arlypon F (lauret-2)------3.03.01.0- Sodium chloride-------1.5-1.5 (1-4) hair rinse, (5-6) conditioner, (7-8) shower bath, (9) shower gel, (10) cleaning lotion
[186] Cosmetic preparations Composition (INCI)11121314151617181920 Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate)20.020.012.4-25.011.0---- Texapon K 14 S (Sodium Mirate Sulfate)--------11.023.0 Texapon SB3 (disodium laureth sulfosuccinate)-----7.0---- Plantacare 818 (coco glucoside)5.05.04.0-----6.04.0 Plantacare 2000 (decyl glucoside)----5.04.0---- Plantacare PS 10 (sodium laurate sulfate (and) coco glucoside)---4.0--16.017.0-- Dehyton PK 45 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)20.020.0--8.0----7.0 Eumulgin B1 (cethearet-12)----1.0----- Eumulgin B2 (Cetearette-20)---1.0------ Lameform TGI (Polyglyceryl-3 Isostearate)---4.0------ Dehymuls PGPH (Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate)--1.0------- Monomuls 90-L 12 (glyceryl laurate)--------1.01.0 Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)-0.2-------- Eutanol G (octyldodecanol)---3.0------ Nutrilan Keratin W (hydrolyzed keratin)--------2.02.0 Nutrilan I (hydrolyzed collagen)1.0----2.0-2.0-- Lamesoft LMG (glyceryl lauret (and) potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen)--------1.0- Lamesoft 156 (Hydrogenated Tallow Glyceride (and) Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen)---------5.0 Gluadin WK (sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein)1.01.54.01.03.01.02.02.02.0- Euperlan PK 3000 AM (glycol distearate (and) laureth-4 (and) cocamidopropyl betaine)5.03.04.0----3.03.0- Panthenol--1.0------- Arlypon F (lauret-2)2.61.6-1.51.5----- Broccoli Sprout Extract H31.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Hydagen CMF (chitosan)1.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Sodium chloride-----1.62.02.2-3.0 Glycerin (86 wt.%)-5.0-----1.03.0- (11-14) two-in-on shower bath, (15-20) shampoo
[187] Cosmetic preparations Composition (INCI)21222324252627282930 Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate)-30.030.0-25.0----- Plantacare 818 (coco glucoside)-10.0--20.0----- Plantacare PS 10 (sodium laurate sulfate (and) coco glucoside)22.0-5.022.0------ Dehyton PK 45 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)15.010.015.015.020.0----- Emulgade SE (glyceryl stearate (and) cetearate 12/20 (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) cetyl palmitate)-----5.05.04.0-- Eumugin B1 (cethearet-12)-------1.0-- Lameform TGI (Polyglyceryl-3 Isostearate)--------4.0- Dehymuls PGPH (Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate)---------4.0 Monomuls 90-O 18 (glyceryl oleate)--------2.0- Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)2.0--2.05.0----2.0 Cetiol OE (Dicaprylyl Ether)--------5.06.0 Cetiol PGL (hexyldecanol (and) hexyldecyl lauret)-------3.010.09.0 Cetiol SN (cetearyl isononanoate)-----3.03.0--- Cetiol V (decyl oleate)-----3.03.0--- Myritol 318 (coco caprylate caprate)-------3.05.05.0 beeswax--------7.05.0 Nutrilan Elastin 50 (hydrolyzed elastin)-----2.0---- Nutrilan I-50 (hydrolyzed collagen----2.0-2.0--- Gluadin AGP (Hydrogenated Wheat Gluten)0.50.50.5----0.5-- Gluadin WK (sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein)2.02.02.02.05.0---0.50.5 Euperlan 3000 AM (glycol distearate (and) laureth-4 (and) cocamidopropyl betaine)5.0--5.0------ Arlypon F (lauret-2)---------- Broccoli Sprout Extract H11.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Hydagen CMF (chitosan)1.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate--------1.01.0 Glycerin (85 wt%)-----3.03.05.05.03.0 (21-25) Foaming Bath, (26) Soft Cream, (27,28) Moisturizing Emulsion, (29,30) Night Cream
[188] Cosmetic preparations Composition (INCI)31323334353637383940 Dehymuls PGPH (Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate)4.03.0-5.0------ Lameform TGI (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate)2.01.0-------- Emulgade PL 68/50 (cetearyl glucoside (and) cetearyl alcohol)----4.0---3.0- Emulgin B2 (Theta Aret-20)-------2.0-- Tegocare PS (polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate)--3.0---4.0--- Eumulgin VL 75 (polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (and) lauryl glucoside (and) glycerin)-----3.5--2.5- beeswax3.02.05.02.0------ Cutina GMS (glyceryl stearate)-----2.04.0--4.0 Lanette O (cetearyl alcohol)--2.0-2.04.02.04.04.01.0 Antaron V 216 (PVP / hexadecene copolymer)-----3.0---2.0 Myritol 818 (cocoglycerides)5.0-10.0-8.06.06.0-5.05.0 Finsolv TN (C12 / 15 alkyl benzoate)-6.0-2.0--3.0--2.0 Cetiol J 600 (Oile Eluate)7.04.03.05.04.03.03.0-5.04.0 Cetiol OE (Dicaprylyl Ether)3.0-6.08.06.05.04.03.04.06.0 Mineral oil-4.0-4.0-2.0-1.0-- Cetiol PGL (hexadecanol (and) hexyldecyl laurate)-7.03.07.04.0---1.0- Panthenol / Bisaborole1.21.21.21.21.21.21.21.21.21.2 Broccoli Extract H3 to H41.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Hydagen CMF (katosan)1.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 Copherol F 1300 (Tocopherol / Tocopheryl Acetate)0.51.01.02.01.01.01.02.00.52.0 Neo heliopan Hydro (Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate)3.0--3.0--2.0-2.0- Neo heliopan 303 (octocrylene)-5.0---4.05.0--10.0 Neo heliopan BB (benzophenone-3)1.5--2.01.5---2.0- Neo heliopan E 1000 (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate)5.0-4.0-2.02.04.010.0-- Neo heliopan AV (Octyl Methoxysanate)4.0-4.03.02.03.04.0-10.02.0 Uvinul T 150 (octyl triazone)2.04.03.01.01.01.04.03.03.03.0 Zinc oxide-6.06.0-4.0----5.0 Titanium dioxide-------5.0-- Glycerol (86 wt.%)5.05.05.05.05.05.05.05.05.05.0 (31) w / o sun protection cream, (32-34) w / o sun protection lotion, (35, 38, 40) w / o sun protection lotion, (36, 37, 39) o / w sun Sun protection cream

权利要求:
Claims (21)
[1" claim-type="Currently amended] Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations comprising:
(a) an effective amount of brassicaea extract; And
(b) oil components and / or emulsifiers and / or UV / IR protective factors and / or antioxidants.
[2" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to claim 1, which contains broccoli, broccoli seeds and / or broccoli sprout extract.
[3" claim-type="Currently amended] The agent according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extract is an active ingredient, which mainly or absolutely contains glucopanin.
[4" claim-type="Currently amended] 3. The formulation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said extract is an active ingredient, which mainly or absolutely contains a mixture of sulfolapans.
[5" claim-type="Currently amended] The compound according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract contains, as an activity, mainly or absolutely a mixture of glucopanin and sulfolapan.
[6" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains the extract in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the formulation.
[7" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains:
(a) 0.1 to 10% by weight of the extract; And
(b) 1 to 99.9 weight percent oil component and / or 0.1 to 15 weight percent emulsifier;
Provided that the amounts indicated above are optionally added up to 100% by weight with water and / or other auxiliaries and additives.
[8" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains:
(a) 0.1-10% by weight of brassicaea extract; And
(b) 0.1 to 20 weight percent UV / IR protective factor and / or antioxidant;
Provided that the amounts indicated above are optionally added up to 100% by weight with water and / or other auxiliaries and additives.
[9" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as a skin and hair care agent.
[10" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as an anti-inflammatory.
[11" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as an antimicrobial agent.
[12" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of Brassicaea extract as an antioxidant.
[13" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as a stimulator or modulator of skin cell formation.
[14" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as an agent to stimulate skin detoxifying enzyme.
[15" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as an anti-acne agent.
[16" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as a skin rejuvenating agent.
[17" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of Brassicaea extract as a UV / IR protective factor.
[18" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of brassicaea extract as an agent for fibroblast and / or keratinocyte damage by UV rays.
[19" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of Brassicaea extract as an agent for UV-induced apoptosis and DNA damage.
[20" claim-type="Currently amended] 20. Use according to any one of claims 9 to 19, characterized in that broccoli, broccoli seed and / or broccoli sprout extract is used as an extract in Brassicaea .
[21" claim-type="Currently amended] 20. The use according to any one of claims 9 to 19, characterized in that glucopanin and / or sulfolapan are used as extracts for brassicaea .

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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AU5440901A|2001-07-03|

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WO2001045661A2|2001-06-28|

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US20030091518A1|2003-05-15|

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JP2003518033A|2003-06-03|

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EP1239826A2|2002-09-18|

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WO2001045661A3|2002-02-28|

引用文献:

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公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

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法律状态:
1999-12-20|Priority to FR9916082A

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1999-12-20|Priority to FR99/16082

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2000-01-31|Priority to FR00/01218

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2000-01-31|Priority to FR0001218A

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2000-12-11|Application filed by 코니스 프랑스, 에스.에이.

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2000-12-11|Priority to PCT/EP2000/012520

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2002-08-05|Publication of KR20020063914A

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR9916082A|FR2802417B1|1999-12-20|1999-12-20|Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing at least one brassicaceae extract|

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FR99/16082|1999-12-20|

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FR00/01218|2000-01-31|

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FR0001218A|FR2804318B1|2000-01-31|2000-01-31|Sun protection products|

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PCT/EP2000/012520|WO2001045661A2|1999-12-20|2000-12-11|Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations|